Wetag Journal

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Boat trip & visit to the Brissago Islands by Pamela Pintus

For a long time, I had been planning to take a little trip to Lake Maggiore. Ticino has almost no secrets for me, but the curiosity to admire the panorama from a different point of view was great. There is no doubt, in fact, that this area is full of wonderful surprises, and a boat trip would have allowed me to enjoy its colors and its landscapes from a new perspective, also giving me the opportunity to take some pictures to add to my collection. In short, the conditions were all there, so I took advantage of a wonderful sunny day to start my adventure and discover the Brissago Islands that I did not know yet.

I took the 10.15 am ride because I had every intention of enjoying the day as much as possible. Boarding was simple, without having to queue or wait longer. Getting on board the boat, it seemed a bit like going back in time, reliving the experiences of those novels set in the early twentieth century, a truly unique feeling. Other people went up with me, but, luckily, the boat was not too full, and I was able to spend the crossing in tranquility, choosing the best place from which to make my photo reportage. As soon as I left, the landscape changed suddenly; as the shoreline moved away, the houses in Locarno became smaller and smaller. It seemed to be in a different dimension, suspended between the sky and water, and the mountains in front, the green patches of vegetation and the villages on the lake that looked like many small pearls that shone under the sun's rays.

Unfortunately, the trip was too short, and after half an hour I already arrived at the destination marina. The history of these islands starts from afar, and it's worth a while to retrace it. In 1881, Baronessa Antoinette de Saint Léger married Richard Flaming, a wealthy officer who, after four years of marriage, inherited a large sum of money from an uncle. So it was that the couple decided to buy what were then known as the Rabbit Islands because they were completely abandoned and populated only by these nice animals. The two immediately fell in love with that place and renovated the remains of an old convent with the intention of transforming the larger island into a botanical park, hosting a large number of vegetation species from every corner of the Earth; growth would be favored by the wonderful local climate. In 1897, however, the marriage between the two ended, and Fleming left the family.

The Baroness continued to devote herself to the care of her park, surrounding herself, however, also with artists and writers of the time. With the First World War, Antoinette fell into disgrace and suffocated by debt. She was forced to sell the property to Max Emden, a German merchant who was more passionate about a good life than nature. It was he who built the palace that can even be admired today, in place of the Baroness building and the church of San Pancrazio. The islands became one of the most famous worldly places of the period, where sumptuous parties and receptions were held. After Emden's death, the islands were bought by the Canton of Ticino and by the municipalities around the lake with the aim of preserving its nature. In 1950, Botanical Park was opened to the public, and since then it has welcomed millions of visitors who can immerse themselves in a real natural paradise.

As soon as I got off the boat, I felt surrounded by peace and quiet. Small paths crossed luxuriant vegetation, composed of various species, mainly subtropical. The botanical park is located on Isola Grande while Isola Piccola is covered with spontaneous vegetation. While walking peacefully, it seemed to me that I was crossing different parts of the world: from the Far East with bamboo, azaleas, rhododendrons or camellias, to Central America with yucca, agave, and various succulent plants. Then, I passed in South Africa between agapanthus, watsonia and protee, going on towards Australia immersed in the midst of majestic eucalyptuses, acacia and callistemons. By the way, I have read these names, I am not so good at recognizing every plant. Glancing towards the small strips of beach, I also noticed swans and ducks sleeping peacefully in the coolness of the trees. I also walked past a small lake with dozens of water lilies floating on the water, a real great show.

Walking through the park's paths, in the meantime, lunchtime had come. So, I headed to the only restaurant on the Isola Grande, surrounded by lush vegetation, where the chef prepares delicious and exclusive dishes. It is part of the Villa Emden hotel, the perfect location for weddings and events, as well as for stays in total tranquility. Obviously, the view of the lake from the restaurant immediately won me over, so I spent more time at lunch than I should have. I chose the menu of the day and tasted salmon with asparagus, saffron risotto and a trio of desserts; the servings were right, and, despite the simplicity, I liked everything. For lunch, moreover, the restaurant is organized precisely to satisfy the tourists who arrive by boat for trips. Paper napkins and simple table setting, while the evening at dinner is a completely different story.

Before leaving this paradise, while waiting for the boat, I made another walk. Then at 5.55 pm I embarked. This wonderful day was coming to an end, and I was happy to have made this choice after so much time thinking about it. So, upon my arrival in Locarno, I decided to end with a drink on the outdoor terrace of the Blu Restaurant & Lounge with a view of Lake Maggiore. The restaurant is furnished in a modern and essential way, and for the aperitif they brought me various delicious finger food. The presence of the famous SPA Locarno in the immediate vicinity makes this place one of the most popular in the area, so it would always be better to book in advance.

In short, it was a positive experience that I recommend to everyone, especially families with children, to spend a day outdoors, also learning a lot.


General information

Open every day

Contacts

Amministrazione Isole di Brissago
Parco botanico del Canton Ticino
6614 Isole di Brissago - Switzerland
T. + 41 (0)91 791 43 61
Fax + 41 (0)91 791 07 63
isoledibrissago@ti.ch

ISOLA GRANDE SA
Hotel – Restaurant – Events
Isole di Brissago
CP 563
6614 Brissago - Switzerland
T. + 41 (0)91 780 54 25
info@villaemden.com

Tickets - Season 2020

Individual Tickets
Adults: CHF 7.00
Children (0-16 years): FREE

Price reductions with:
Railaway
Ticino Ticket
App myAscona-Locarno            CHF 4.90

Friends of the islands:  CHF 100.-
(Free access to the Park for the whole season)

Boat timetable

18.07.2020 - until further notice :  Orario battelli

Guided tour season 2020

Cancelled

Further information